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Plumbing: Removal And Replacement Of Radiators

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From time to time removing a radiator is a necessary task that many people would only trust to a plumber. For simple maintenance or to aid decorating, the removal of a radiator doesn't need to be a specialist job and can be easily carried out by the householder. That said, if you doubt your DIY skills then leave well alone, but for those who have a reasonable understanding of how their heating system works, the job can be done without too much fuss or mess.



Before beginning any kind of work on radiators it's best to spend a little time familiarising yourself with the system and ensuring you have an understanding of where various shut off valves are located. It's also useful to equip yourself with all the likely tools, fittings, materials etc, to complete the job. There is nothing worse than being in the middle of a job only to find it'll take a trip to the DYI store to finish…..especially when water is involved.

To begin the task of removing a radiator first close off the lock shield valve (usually bottom of radiator). Do not over tighten and remain mindful of roughly how many turns it takes to close it. With a tub or bowl placed under the valve begin to disconnect the valve from the radiator. As water begins to leak out ensure the water is collected properly; adjusting the flow with the nut that connects the valve to the radiator can control the speed of the flow. Opening the bleed valve (usually top of radiator) will help the water flow out. As the flow slows the valve and radiator can be completely disconnected and the remaining water drained off.

It should now be possible to lift the radiator from the wall brackets, which in turn can also be removed. This now clears the space for other types of repair work or decorating etc. If the wall is to be papered it's a good idea to replace the wall bracket screws in order to mark their location.

Refitting the radiator is generally a reversal of the removal procedure. Depending upon the valves types it's sometime useful (but not always necessary) to replace the olives (brass washer type fitting) and / or bind the connecting treads with fresh PTFE tape. With the connections properly made slowly open the lock shield valve by the same number of turns it took to close. With the bleed valve open air should be pushed out of the radiator and replaced with water from the central heating system. Once bubbles of water emerge from the bleed valve close it off. If no leaks can be seen, running the central heating will push water around the system. Practically it's good to check the rest of the radiators in the house for cold spots and bleed any air as may be needed.

If the radiator is to be replaced with a new one the compatibility of valves and radiator need to be checked. If the new radiator is supplied without valves it may be possible to remove and install the old valves from the previous radiator. Treads should be cleaned and installed after binding with PTFE tape. Wall brackets may also need moving or replacing if the new radiator is a different design to the old one.
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