As with most other types of flooring, remember that the color of your floor will be the background and foundation for your overall decorating scheme. If you're working with dark furniture, you may want to consider a lighter colored floor. With light furniture, a medium or darker colored floor may be a better choice.
Although most of the patterns and colors available with laminate flooring resemble wood, there are some ways to get creative if you have the space in which to do it. For example, WILSONART and BRUCE make a line of color coordinated tiles that can be used for an entire floor, or as a border with the wood look patterns.
Generally, you want to make sure that you have a large enough room or total area if you plan on using these tiles as borders. For instance, if you are doing a small bedroom—let's say a 10' x 10' area—using these borders might be a mistake. In a small area such as this, after you place all of your furniture, you will probably not see as much of the border as you would like. In addition, bordering out a small room will tend to make the room look even smaller.
On the other hand, if you have a larger area—a living and dining room together that measure 14' x 25' for example—the border may look very attractive and accent the room very well. It will probably not cut down the overall look of a larger room either, as it would in a smaller room.
In some cases you can even use these borders as an inset in one area to highlight that area. For example, let's say you have that same living and dining room, 14' x 25', you can use the tiles in the dining room inset in the middle of the wood pattern underneath the dining room table. This will give you a very formal and classic look and will help distinguish one room from the other.
Another consideration when deciding on the finished look of your laminate floor will be the baseboard or quarter round molding you will use. Since the laminate floors are all free floating, you must leave a space or "expansion joint" along all the walls in order for the floor to expand and contract properly. In doing this, you can leave a gap that then needs to be covered. If you have no existing baseboard on your walls, or you're planning on removing your existing baseboard, than you will need to install new baseboard after you install the laminate floor.
The decision you will need to make in this case, is whether to use a matching baseboard or a painted baseboard. Our preference is to use a painted baseboard. We feel this way because we have seen both, and the painted baseboard is a nice contrast with the floor while blending with the walls. Since the baseboard is on a vertical surface up against the wall, it is a part of the wall and should match the wall. If you're doing a lager area, you will find that using the matching baseboard is a lot more expensive than using the painted.
Remember, this is only our opinion, if you like the look of matching baseboard, there's nothing wrong with it, and you should use what you like. After all, you will be living in the house, not us. We can only tell you through experience what we feel looks the best, and what the majority of homeowners are using.
If you have existing baseboards that you will not be removing, you will need to install what's called "quarter round" molding. If you can picture looking at a circle and dividing it into four, each would be a quarter round. The quarter round molding should match the existing baseboard. Again, you can use a quarter round that matches the floor, but it will most likely stand out if you have a light colored baseboard such as white, and your laminate floor is a wood pattern such as oak. For more information on baseboards, quarter round, and other moldings, please go to our "Laminate Flooring Installation Products & Accessories" page.
Remember, please call us if you are the least bit confused, have any questions at all, or just want to talk about laminate floors some more.
Problems With Laminate Flooring
Laminate flooring has come a long way in the last five years. There are more varieties, colors and grades than you can imagine. Not only is it more reasonable than hardwood, but it's so easy to install that the average do-it-yourselfer can take it on. The result is a high quality floor that looks almost like wood, and if installed correctly, supports a hefty warranty period. Some brands warranty their laminates for over 25 years.
Here are the steps for installing the Torlys Quick-Step flooring and some of the details you need to be aware of that apply to most laminate flooring.
Place the boxes of flooring in your home and allow 24 to 48 hours to climatize before installation. If installing in a new home, you may want to run a dehumidifier for one week prior to installation. The humidity should be approximately 40 to 60 percent.
Thoroughly clean and level the sub floor using self-leveling concrete for anything more than 1/12" per 39 1/2".
The flooring basically floats, but it requires a 3/8" expansion gap around the outside of the room or any fixed objects. If your baseboard will not cover the gap you can either add quarter round trim or undercut the drywall and slide the laminate under the wall.
When laying over concrete floor, it's important to determine whether you have a moisture problem. Tape pieces of clear polyethylene plastic in several places on the floor, leave for 24 hours and check whether condensation has formed. Any extensive water build-up or leakage need to be fixed before laying the floor.
Before placing the laminate, start with a 2-mm layer of underlay of antimicrobial foam with attached self-sealing moisture barrier which provides sound absorption and warmth. The underlay is placed in the same direction as the planks. Generally, these are run parallel to the flow of natural light or to the longest wall.
Overlap the underlay about 4" up the wall to create a vapour barrier. In doorways or cut ends, seal with damp-proof or tuck tape. When attaching one row to another, pull back the foam, removing tape on adhesive strip and replace foam to form a continuous vapour barrier.
Lay down a test row of laminate planks, ensuring the last plank will not be less than 8". For the first row, begin in the corner and move left to right keeping the groove in front of you. This small step will make the rest of your job easier.
When you're ready to begin, open several boxes and choose packs randomly from different packs, inspecting each before laying.
Saw off the tongue off the long side of the first row of planks (and the short side of the corner board), so they will fit nicely against the outer edge and create the 3/8" expansion gap. Don't cut your last plank until all the pieces in the first row are clicked in place.
Uses the wedges provided by the manufacturer to create your expansion gap for the outer perimeter. When starting the second row, it should be smaller than the first piece you used in the previous row, but no less than 8". This will stagger the joints as you go along. Click the board into place by angling it slightly, insert tongue into groove, and rock it into place. Click in a scrap at the joints to keep both planks level, and using the tapping block, lightly tap into place.
When installing the last plank in the row, use the board puller to securely attach the plank.
Apply molding to finish off the edges in the doorway, still allowing for an expansion gap. Use T-molding to transition between two types of flooring and snap into place.
Both Lara Newcomb & Mike are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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