The earlier article "Introduction to Dog Dominance Behavior" and Part A of this article emphasize the critical importance of using dog pack psychology and the dog whisper behavior communication system of silence, submission, and leadership to communicate effectively with your dog, command his attention, and establish your authority as the Leader and Master.

Now we will give you a secret tip with a concrete example of how to implement this approach to solve aggression dog dominance or patterns of willfulness and stubborn disobedience in your dog. Yelling will not work. It only turns a difficult dog off and escalates the problem. How often has each of us made that spontaneous mistake? It is soooo important to keep your cool!

Check your attitude before you dive in. You should only start work with your dog when you are cool, calm, and collected. Then throughout your dog behavior modification exercises, you need to conduct yourself in a steady, firm, focused, and consistent manner. If the dog is stubborn and persistent, You must be more so . . . and You win! He submits!

Iron sharpens iron. You should have the iron control of an iron fist in a soft glove.

I also cannot emphasize enough the importance of your establishing and maintaining steady, firm eye contact with your Dominant Dog . . . so that in "dog language," you convey the silent, unmistakably clear message that YOU are the one with the authority and control. YOU are the "Pack Leader" to whom all others in the pack must submit. Remember, you must give dominance no place, but give it an inch, and it will take a mile! No, you have to deal with it. So here's a detailed example of HOW:

Challenge Example #1:

Many people are presented with "impossible" situations such as a dog we'll call "Pete." Pete snarls when you try to get him off the bed. You try yelling at him . . . bribing him with treats . . . begging: "Please, baby," . . . and have lapsed into tears of extreme frustration! You fear Pete, and rightly so, because he snaps. So what can you do?

The next time Pete is off the bed and out of the bedroom, shut the door. Then think of something that makes you feel "on top of the world" . . . and DO NOT LOSE THAT THOUGHT! If you lose your focus with an untrained animal, you will not be able to accomplish what you want.

STAY FOCUSED!!!!

Next, loop Pete's leash around his neck and make him walk into the room beside you. [Be sure the leash is a long "training leash."] Walk in. Then make Pete sit or lie down. This is a higher level of control.

If Pete starts to get up of his own accord, go "SHHHHH" or give a quiet but firm "Hey!" and hold a focused, firm (but NOT angry) stare. Your level, unblinking eye contact speaks volumes to Pete in potent, silent, pack language.

Then snap your fingers and point at Pete. All the while, stay focused on the thought that made you feel on top of the world, which gives you a feeling of authority and control. Dogs smell the authority scent that we let off when focused.

Expect Pete to need some repeated correction. So practice this whole procedure at least 5 times. If he jumps on the bed, remove him immediately, with your "SHHHHH" or quiet, firm "Hey!" and a focused, firm stare. Yelling will not help in this situation.

Then walk Pete out of the room beside you. For 10-14 days keep Pete out of the room. Do not let him anywhere near that bed!

Dogs follow a step-by-step process in life, so every training exercise should mirror that. You will rehabilitate dogs like Pete only step by step, with consistency, persistence, patience, and focus.

Also, while dogs respond to words in "training," speaking will not work well in "rehabilitation," as here with Pete. Words will not establish your dominance. No amount of yelling will establish your dominance. . . . only the body language of focused "silence."

Challenge #2 B The Second Step:

Keep Pete outside the bedroom at the open doorway, wearing his leash. Be sure he is lying down obediently, then lay his leash down. Give him the signals through body language -- your staring, snapping, and pointing -- not with words.

With Pete lying at the threshold to the bedroom, you enter and sit on the bed -- still very focused, exuding authoritative control. You concentrate on your "top-of-the-world" thought while making Pete wait 3 to 5 minutes. Then you invite him into the room.

If Pete does not walk in calmly, then correct him. . . Point, snap, stare . . . and place him back where he started -- at the doorway, wearing his leash, lying down. Make him wait again before inviting him back into the room.

If Pete races in and jumps on the bed, firmly pull the leash and remove him from the bed matter-of-factly. Make him walk out of the room with you and lie down in front of the door. Instruct him to stay, while you keep a focused stare at his eyes.

Then sit on the bed again and think of how YOU are the dominant one . . . and how YOU are NOT sharing the bed right now!

10 minutes later, bring Pete in. Choose a corner and make him stay there. Again, correct him if he moves. If at any time he jumps on the bed, remove him from it and start over. Do this 5 to 7 times, but no more right then.

Pete will eventually have no issues with the bed. This process should take no more than 30 days. If it does, though, remember that professional dog trainers and dog behaviorists are available to help, so take advantage of our experience. Never be ashamed to ask for help from a professional dog trainer who understands pack psychology, any more than you would be ashamed to ask a lawyer, accountant, banker, or broker for help with a situation involving their specialties. Dog behavior modification and solving dog dominance behavior problems are not easy, and no one will laugh.

This is "do-able," though, and YOU have the power to do it! You have the power to regain your life, your home, and your right relationship with your pet. As Nike says: "Just DO it!"

Remember the old cowboy saying:

"Ain't no horse that can't be rode . . .

Ain't no rider that can't be throwed."