Before any other stitch can be formed, it begins as a straight stitch.



The stitch is formed by the interlinking of the upper sewing machine thread with the bobbin thread from below. This stitch is said to lock. When the tensions are properly set, this locked stitch forms in the middle of the fabric out of the users view.

For over a hundred years, home sewing machines were limited to sewing a series of these stitches in a straight line or one after the other. This line of stitch could be adjusted for length between stitches. This enabled the sewing machine to produce very fine stitches, medium length stitches, and longer stitches. The longest straight stitch is called a basting stitch.

In about 1950, the first home zig zag sewing machines began to appear. The introduced a revolutionary concept. Instead of simply adjusting the length of a stitch, they devised a way to alter the width of the stitches. The sewing machine would move the needle to the left and make a stitch. Then it would move the needle to the right and make a stitch. The result was the introduction of the zig zag stitch.

Suddenly, the capacity of stitch variety had more than doubled. Instead of just adjusting stitch length to produce a few variation, the zig zag machines could alter the width of the stitch (0mm to 5 mm to 9mm for top of line modern machines) as well. This actually made it possible for a sewing machine to boast six or eight stitch functions depending entirely on how the sewing machine was set.

The side to side stitching creates some dynamic visual effects that inspired increased creativity. Generally, these stitches are called zig zag stitches regardless of width or length, however, very long stitches are also called zig zag basting stitches. We call very fine or short zig zag stitches satin stitches.

What a gorgeous stitch the satin stitch makes. The threads lie side by side giving an embellished flare to the stitching. It is important, however, to produce a consistent stitch where the thread do not bunch up or leave gaps between stitches. A trial sewing on scrap fabric is always a good idea.

The presser foot on your sewing machine makes a huge difference in your ability to sew a good looking satin stitch. The standard zig zag presser foot has basically flat bottom. When you sew a standard zig zag stitch, you have no problem. As soon as you start sewing a satin stitch, watch out. Due to the closeness of the stitches, they tend to get caught on the presser foot and bunch up. The solution is to use the specialty presser foot designed for satin stitching. This foot has a groove the entire length of the foot. It allows the satin stitch to flow underneath freely without problem.

Regulate the satin stitch just like you would a straight stitch. Set the stitch length knob to a very very short length. Then test the stitch. If you see gaps between the threads, turn the length a bit shorter. If you see thread bubbling up, out of place, or over other threads; slightly lengthen the stitch. This is an art, but once you get the right setting on test cloth, you should be ready to sew a beautiful satin stitch.

Sewing with satin stitches is just a bit more delicate than a simple straight stitch, but the recommended process for guiding your fabric is the same. Start by sliding the fabric edge under the presser foot and then lower the presser foot to hold it in place. Put your right hand on the right edge of the fabric three to four inches in front of the needle to serve as your guide hand while steering the fabric. Avoid every putting your right hand through the arm of the sewing machine. This may be a temptation, thinking you need to pull the fabric through or help it through, but dont. If the fabric fails to move through the sewing machine, there is a problem. Do not make it worse by pulling the fabric. Instead, allow the sewing machine to do its job while you steer the fabric.

Use your left hand to keep the fabric flowing smooth while sewing. Flatten out folds, wrinkles, and bunches. Keep the fabric even. Avoid tugging on the fabric, placing your hand behind the needle, or attempting to assist the operation of the sewing machine itself. Just keep the fabric coming smooth and flat.

When sewing curves with a satin stitch, remember not to turn too sharply. A gradual run will keep the satin stitch from leaving spaced between the threads. It may be necessary to slightly shorten the stitch length if you are find too many open spaces between threads along curves.