Proper lighting intensity is essential for the corals to carry out the process of photosynthesis, the process through which they create energy needed to survive and grow. Whatever the approach or equipment be, the ultimate goal of al lighting methods is to provide photoperiod, intensity and proper spectrum for your reef inhabitants to flourish and thrive easily.
The commonly used phrase, "watts per gallon," is a way of expressing the lighting necessary for a tank by the ratio of the power used to illuminate the tank divided by the tank size in gallons. Many hobbyists suggest that an adequate amount of light would vary between four watts and six watts per gallon for low light coral and as much as ten watts per gallon (or more) for light loving coral. While such a rule of thumb may initially sound like a good idea, it should only be used as a rough guideline and not as a strict rule. Obviously, such a loose rule is misleading, and aquarists need to consider more than just "watts per gallon." Specifically, they must take into account the height and overall size of the tank.
Lighting in the reef aquarist parlance is generally expresses in ?Watts per gallon?. A thumb rule suggested by many says that light should vary between four to six watts per gallon low light coral and about 10 watts for corals with high light intensity needs. But this is not a hardcore researched rule and should only be used as a rough estimate. There are other factors like the overall height and depth of the tank before making a choice.
A very innovative method of using a multi-light system with timers or controllers to vary the number of lights on at any given time is probably the most effective one. In this system usually one bulb remains on for an hour, then all the bulbs for 10 hours and then just one is left on for next hour. This method actually simulates the sun passing over. This is as close one can get to re create the natural lighting mechanism of the sun.
There is no doubt that steady advances made in the light manufacturing industry have made these equipments better and better and more efficient.
The solution for your reef tank can vary in price from inexpensive to very expensive. What suits you depends upon the kind of life you want in your tank.
Two primary lighting equipments available in the market and widely used are Fluorescents and Metal Halides (MH).
There are several variants of Fluorescents. These are the least expensive or rather value for money choice and are suitable for practically all light choices. These are relatively cool (literally speaking, not metaphorically!). And generally they last for many months before requiring replacement. Examples of different fluorescents are: Normal Output (NO), High Output (HO), very High Output (VHO), Power Compacts (PC) and T5's.
Among all the variants in fluorescents you can call Power Compacts a next generation fluorescent bulb. They have a modern twin tube design, basically a fluorescent tube that is bent in half. Therefore much greater light intensity is produced than other standard fluorescent variants. The fluorescent tubes are available from 10 to 130 watts and can last up to a year to two.
You should opt for a fluorescent if your reef tank is not very deep. There are some corals like SPS corals for which the light intensity of fluorescent is not enough. So keep these points in mind while thinking of a fluorescent.
The other popular option is the Metal Halides. There are different parameters to be considered here too. They are the most intense of all available lighting systems. If you have a tank which is deeper than 20 inches, this is what you may consider to buy, as halides have greater capacity to penetrate to depths beyond 20 inches. Apart from the utility they beautify your tank also by producing sparkling glitter lines.
So if you want to have a successful reef, know your tank and corals well and then make an informed choice. Only then ?Let there be Light?!
Setting Up Reef Tank
Let me start from the bare basics. What exactly is a nano reef tank? A nano reef is nothing but a reef tank of less than 20 gallons. Now this is not a sacrosanct rule or law like the Newton's law on gravity but I strongly adhere to this definition as 20 gallons is the threshold where popular accepted formulas for reef tanks or ?small? reef tanks begin to loose ground, calling for new conventions.
Next pretty obvious question which you may ask is why would you want a nano reef tank? Pretty obvious answer: It is generally a low cost affair. You can easily manage a decent nano tank with less than $200. Apart from cost they are easy to maintain, you can fit them anywhere, are extremely portable (that means if you are bored of watching it lying on your home desk, take it to your office desk without any hassles!).
And it is not something for just novices. They can offer new challenges to experienced reef keepers minus the cost and time constraints. I say challenging because there is very little room for error when it comes to the nano tank. Whether it is maintaining water quality or temperature stability or oxygen depletion, one has to be extremely careful in maintaining a nana reef tank.
Lighting a Nano reef is something of a complex issue. There are people who have kept Nano reefs with 3-7 watts per gallon of light. Some have used 30 watts. It boils down to the fact that you can have a successful coral tank using the rule of thumb, 3-7 watts per gallon, but your tank will be healthier if you provide larger quantities of light.
A nano reef will require your attention towards heating and cooling aspects too. This is because in a nano reef tank stable temperature control is very important. Unlike large tanks temperature change in nano reefs can be quite large and frequent. For heating purpose a normal heater would be suffice. But cooling is a difficult problem. A common solution is to keep the tank in air-conditioned room. Some people use evaporative cooling with fans, but this is probably not the best idea as there are chances that amount of evaporation it causes can produce wide specific gravity shifts in a nano tank which would not be appreciated by the tank's inhabitants.
Due to small surface area a nano reef tank will require adequate water circulation more than any other form of reef tank. A simple and effective solution is to use an open ended bubbler. Larger is the size of your tank more bubblers you may need.
There is no doubt that a sump would greatly aid in the temperature and nutrient buffering capabilities of a nano, but its seldom used. The main reason for this is that being small in size, using a sump adds to the complexity and takes up space, a big constraint in a nano.
Now here comes the best part of the nano reefs. The water quality maintainenace or change is ridiculously simple! Being small, the water quantity is low. So changing water every two weeks is a painless task. Regular water change will also obviate the need for a skimmer.
Now decide on for what live rock to choose and what quantity. Again here is a nano advantage. Since the size is small you wont be required lot of rock so you can go for the best quality live rock without causing a dent in your bank account.
And finally the choice for corals : You could go for both stony corals or soft corals. Virtually every soft coral is eligible for a nano reef tank. But when it comes to stony ones few points need to be cosnsidered. You should go for small colonies of stony corals, preferablly 12". You can pick any among Acropora, Bubble coral, Favites, Torch Coral or Elegance coral.
For a 5 gallon nano, you should add another about 3 lbs of live rock, plus at least another 3 lbs of live sand.
So go all out and play! Its not about the size, remember all good things come in small packages.
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