Once you have drawn a reasonably appropriate arabesque it is time to situate the main landmarks of the skull. That means that we will accurately situate the most essential spots of the skull. These spots will then be used as references for mapping out the rest of the skull features.
Here is something that may aid you with this task: work with your eyes somewhat out-of-focus. This is called looking with a "soft eye". Somehow this makes it easier to accurately determine forms and proportions. It also assists you with suppressing the predetermined concepts we all have of certain objects.
Let us assume that we are working from a 3/4 skull pose.
* The Brow Ridge - is the first significant landmark. To place the brow ridge you must first take your best guess at where you think it is and only then check it by sighting.
Note that to teach your eyes it is better to first guess lengths, angles, etc. and check them second. There is nothing to gain from pre- measuring.
Sighting signifies to use your pencil with locked arm and checking lengths along the pencil with your thumb and index finger and an eye closed.
So then, first sight from the bottom of the chin to a spot on the brow ridge (just select an arbitrary spot on the ridge. But once chosen you should hold on to it.
Now hoist your pencil so that your thumb is on your spot on the brow ridge and note where your pencil point is. It should be a tiny distance above the top of the skull. Mark on your sketch where you can best place that point above the skull. This point is called the "check-point".
Note that whenever there is a choice, you should always size the shortest length because doing so tends to be more right.
Your spot on the brow ridge should, if it was placed accurately, be exactly halfway between the bottom of the chin and your check-point. If it is not – then change the placement of your brow ridge.
* Jaw Hinge - Now you can tag the width of the head. In the 3/4 pose the hinge of the jaw is an essential landmark. Again, take your best guess then check by sighting horizontally from the hinge of the jaw to the outer edge of the cheek bone and vertically relating that measure from the bottom of the chin.
* Top Nose Bone - Since we have already placed the brow ridge we now only have to approximate a short length to place the top of the nasal bone. If you established the hinge of the jaw accurately, it should equal the length from the bottom of the chin to the nasal bone. If you are off a little, then correct the placement of the hinge of the jaw. Again, assume that the smallest distance estimated is the right one.
Now that these key landmarks are placed you can further work out the arabesque. I find it best to further resolve only the back, less, part of the skull at this early time.
* Facial Angle - Lastly, you need to situate the facial angle which is the center line of the face. Sketch a slightly arching line from the middle of the mental tubercle up through the center of the brow ridge.
The placement of the facial angle is very significant. You have to feel your way through this as there is no way to correctly measure it.
Once the facial angle is placed proceed with drawing the arabesque carefully observing the form of the mouth region, the forehead, and all other features that are expressed in the form of the arabesque.
With this, we have placed all the fundamental landmarks that will help us with the mapping of the rest of the features such as the nose and teeth.
The Art Of Portrait Drawing
Value is generally thought of as shadow. Beginners generally first draw an outline of the shadow and then fill in the shadows little by little. They usually begin with an eye and then grow out the shadows. Inevitably, the outcome is a mish-mash of non-cohesive darks and lights.
There are two distinct ways of viewing value: in Western culture we see value as shadow; in Eastern culture value is seen as color.
A European spectator seeing a Chinese drawing will be struck by its flatness. Conversely, Chinese connoisseurs in the 17-hundreds seeing for the first time European portraits were perplexed by the "dark scuff-marks" under the nose.
Applying, or more accurately, constructing value should be done with a sculptural sensibility. That is, think of your sketch as a piece of clay that is to be carved. Once roughly carved, you then model the surface forms with varying intensities of value while working their borders thus defining the forms present in the head.
A portrait drawing from life or (photo) begins with the drawing of the arabesque. Two things must be accurately sketched: 1. the form of the entire head; and 2. the proportions (i.e., length and angle relationships). This is a learned ability that no one is born with.
Once the arabesque has been struck, the entire head is then broken down into two parts: a big light and a big dark. No more than that. At this point, do not worry about whether or not one area is darker than the other. Only the large light/dark pattern counts.
Observe that squinting is a good way to more clearly see the value patterns because you are not distracted by details.
A good rule of thumb is to divide an area in two. For instance, if an observed dark patch is not totally even in value divide it in two and block-in the two somewhat differing values. Before long a multifaceted but unified matrix of values will emerge.
From the blocking-in of the large darks you can then easily draw the features. Over time you should try to remember the entire anatomy and "sense" the form 3-dimensionally. This, too, is a learned ability.
You must know your anatomy to succeed in drawing portraits even at the most fundamental level. Learn the anatomy in bite-size portions as you draw along.
A good way to draw is to toggle back and forth between line drawing and tonal drawing or hatching. Another way is to first do a entire line drawing of the subject. That is, to draw a "map" of the head that encompasses all planes and scores the boundaries of the various tonal areas. As a second phase you can then hatch-in the accurate values.
While you shade be constantly aware of the planes of the head and the direction of the light source.
Another ablity to be acquired is the ablity to cross-hatch patches in a flat and even manner. There is nothing more distracting than rough looking cross-hatching.
Finally, take note of a strange optical illusion called "simultaneous contrast". It happens when light and dark values lie next to each other. In general, white is extroverted while black is introverted. The consequence is that the white patch looks bigger than it is while the black patch will look smaller.
In closing, keep the blocking-in procedure simple. Look for big masses first and then for the smaller ones. It is always better to work from the general to the specific. And, at this point, ignore the details.
Both Alex Gwen Thomson & Robert Thomson are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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