In the 1970s, homes were full of teak furniture. It was popular because it was affordable, durable and fashionable. Then came the 1980s and 1990s where the lighter the furniture the better, and where low-cost furniture stores sprang up to offer ranges of coolly-designed furniture to those with less money but more aspirations. Oak, pine, beech and a range of effects inspired by these woods, have led the way for many years, but teak furniture may be making a comeback – and not just in the garden.
One of the problems teak has encountered in the past was environmental. Demand for teak furniture across the globe had seriously threatened the growth and supply of the wood and people stopped buying teak in protest. Today, teak forests are closely and carefully managed, with reforestation programmes in place that ensure the ongoing supply of the wood.
Teak has long been popular for outdoor furniture because it is so durable and strong. Able to withstand changes in temperature and impervious to water damage, it is the ideal choice for patio and garden tables and chairs. Increasingly, however, teak is also returning as a favourite indoors. The number of companies offering teak dining tables, sideboards, cabinets and other ranges has sparked interest from homeowners who are looking to add a bit of warmth to their home or who are at the stage of dispensing with cheap furniture and going for quality.
Teak has a lot going for it. It's easy to care for because it doesn't suffer from many of the problems that beset other woods. It looks great – its natural colour is protected in indoor environments, and its grain and texture are perfect for standalone pieces. Its inherent strength means that it's great for furniture designers, who are bringing teak furniture up-to-date. So yes, teak is making a comeback – perhaps you should go and see what all the fuss is about.
The Technique Of Furniture Making
The first thing to aim for is excellence of workmanship through painstaking effort. In this, the tools play a large part. Good tools last longer and help in doing good work - provided they are kept in good shape.
If it is necessary to deal with large pieces of wood, room will be required to work on them from either end. Sometimes a small room with strategically placed doors or windows - through which to poke the free end of a long piece - will serve just as well as a bigger room. But it is much better not to have to rely on such borrowed space, especially in bad weather.
If there are one or more power tools, it is well to have them movable so that large pieces can be fed to them from either side. This means a sufficiently long electric cord (or alternative outlets) and a solid base for the tool that does not need to be fastened to the floor.
Usually, the tool that benefits most from this arrangement is the bench saw. In any case, before installing either bench - or floor - type tools and equipment, it is wise to make a scale plan of the room (of at least half an inch to the foot), and cut out pieces of cardboard to the same scale to represent the tools, etc. Then by shifting the pieces around they can be located efficiently. The locations of doors and windows should be considered.
Other prime requisites of working space are plenty of light and comfortable working temperature in all seasons. The space needed will be governed to some extent by the kind of work to be done and the size of the pieces to be handled.
For lighting, nothing can beat daylight - and if that can't be arranged for, or if the shop must be used before and after daylight hours, the best substitute undoubtedly is the fluorescent light. It may cost more than an ordinary fixture but it will soon save the cost through smaller electricity bills. However, just any kind of fluorescent lamps will not do - especially in shop concerned with colors and finishing.
The lamps must give the closest approach to daylight that can be had. This can be checked by looking at paint color cards, first in daylight then by the light of the lamps. The so-called "white" tube usually is much too pink, and the "daylight" tube much too blue. A combination of the two will give much better results - or at least the colors applied under such a light will look more natural in daylight.
To get good fluorescent distribution requires large lamps with long tubes (and two tubes to a fixture - which, incidentally, reduces flicker), or two fixtures to a tool so that there is no shadow on one side. The 40-watt tubes, four feet long, are ideal in many cases.
For a power drill or jigsaw a supplementary spotlight will be called for, focused on the work and usually attached to the machine itself. These can be the ordinary type of light bulb, but they should have a shade so that the light is concentrated on the work and does not get in the operator's eyes.
Equally as important as unhampered vision is bodily comfort - for which the first requisite is proper working temperature. Frozen fingers are no aid to good work, and neither is perspiration in the eyes. It is essential also to have a comfortable floor to stand on. Concrete may be cool and clean, but it is also tiring. Usually, something a little more resilient is called for - a wooden boarded floor is perhaps best. It has the necessary "give" and has insulating value against heat and cold.
With your workshop set up thus, you are ready to start the important work of furniture making.
Both Napton Teaks & Jimmy Cox are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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