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Used Parts For Motorcycle

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Tune-ups don't require ignition coil replacements. Sometimes you need to replace the spark plug caps on the ends of the wires, though. The resistance value should be around 5K ohms. Honda Tune up kits generally has plugs, points and condensers in them, as a set. The number of miles you have on the bike engine and the overall care it has had makes a lot of difference in what you will need and what may keep going for you, for a while.



The tools that came in your kit, if complete, could barely get you by on repairs/tune-ups. If you own a bike, you need to know about how to repair it and have the tools to do the job. You can go to Wal-Mart, Costco and elsewhere and get giant tool packages for $100 or less that will get you going pretty well. An Impact Driver with a selection of bits and a good hammer will be a good investment! Steel screws, resting in aluminum threads for such a long time will setup corrosion in the threads that can spell trouble in some cases.

The cables are now 33 years old.... probably time for a change! If your bike is a 1973 CB350G, then it has a front disk brake that has its own maintenance issues. Same with the CB350F. The "regular" CB350 twins had cable operated drum brakes.

You can get a lot of stuff on EBay, as far as tune-up parts go. You need to identify the exact model, of course, before you move forward, plus a good tune-up guide and/or shop manual will be useful. I have a PDF version of a minor tune-up guide that is a reprint from a Cycle Guide magazine special booklet, but it only covers CB350 Twins. The principles of engine tuning are all the same, but the details between 2 and 4 cylinder bikes are somewhat different in layout of components.

If you used stabil or some kind of gasoline stabilizer for the winter, the carbs should be okay. I would certainly drain them and refill the tank with fresh gasoline. Yamaha makes a carb cleaner that you mix with gasoline and then funnel down the carb fuel line to clean out the parts in the float bowl while it is together. Depends on what kind of condition the parts are in, though. Honda carbs have numerous O-rings inside that need replacing after 33 years!

What you could do, and it may require some modification on your part, is to find a hard bag mount set for your bike and then go to a motorcycle salvage yard and see what they have that you may like. You would likely have to repaint them, but that requires a wind-free place to work and a bit of light sanding and paint and a few hours.

Alternatively, if you know how to work with fiberglass, you could build the bags you want yourself, but this is a long-term project that will eat up a lot of your spare time to do it quickly. You can also look on a few of the catalogue sites. In addition to that, try some of the e-groups for Kawasaki and Vulcan's. There are a lot of specialized e-groups out there for specific makes and models of bikes. Look there, as there may be someone who is getting rid of a set that will work on your bike. It will certainly be less expensive than new.

Honda pretty much washes their hands of responsibility of supplying parts after about 10 years after end of production. They have made thousands of different models and dozens of variations of many of those, so the parts inventory and production considerations are staggering in any case.

Honda does have a vintage parts division, apparently in Japan who will make small quantities of some items that they still have tooling for, like exhaust systems for some of the fours. CB750 primarily. CMS in Holland is tied to them, to a certain extent and almost had them remake the missing #2 pipe for the 350Fs but the cost got too high.

Companies like apex cycle, retrobikes and a few others are having Asian companies remake some items. You won't be seeing any new crankshafts or engine cases coming from Honda or anyone else. Tooling and production of this stuff is way too expensive nowadays.

I have a source in Australia who makes new Dream and CB77 mufflers from stainless steel.

It is a small company and he's willing to do the tooling in-house just to produce the parts, but he's getting near retiring and that source will dry up one day. A company in NZ made some beautiful new CB77 mufflers a few years back, but the supply is now gone, I believe and they don't seem interested in doing another run again.

If there is sufficient demand, someone usually steps up and takes a shot at having parts made, but there are so many parts in a bike and so many models, that it is impossible to expect that the supply line for 40+ year old motorcycles is going to continue indefinitely. Brit bikes and scooters remained relatively unchanged for many years, so making parts for those is less of a stretch, than doing Honda camshafts for 250-305s... there were three versions of splines on just those parts.
Used Parts For Motorcycle
Don't cut the stock air filter housing. It is not only the housing that is restrictive but also the air filter element. Just put the screaming Beagle so called Hi-flow air filter kit on and is done with it. You will be throwing away money for the down load kit. It will not help. The two best performance items you can install is one, the high flow slip ones (which you did) and the high flow air filter kit. The calibration chip comes with it.

That is why it costs so much. Just punching a hole in the breather casing is a bad idea. You don't know how it will flow. When you do the above you are leaning out the bike. Hunch the chip. Spark plugs will not help in the slightest. They all perform about the same.

On most models you adjust beam angel by turning in or out the adjustment screws on the headlight-housing frame. One screw is for distance (up/down), the other for wind age (left/right). Some models have only a wind age adjustment screw. The actual housing mounting bolts adjust for distance. I would be more specific, but there was no year, make, and model provided. Buy a copy of the service/repair manual. Learn about this and all maintenance and repair tasks.

These tacks were defective from the factory. A cold solder joint on the circuit board is the culprit. The problem can be fixed at home. The challenge is getting them open and putting them back together. It's a permanent fix if you do manage to get it open without damage. The 1984 and 1985 VT700 Shadow tachometers share the same part numbers. I haven't found a parts inter-changeability list for the Shadows.

K1-K4 models have 20mm float level settings, a #65 main jet for AT7B crabs and #58 Main jet for 533A models. Needle clip is #2 slot from the top, but you can play with it to increase throttle response. Adding choke as you indicated means that it is running lean, more than likely. Make sure that the gaskets/O-rings on the intake manifold, insulator and carb flanges are in good shape and there are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the head. These bikes tend to strip the threads in the manifold to head boltholes.

Be sure that the fuel tank is clean, the petcock (fuel valve passages are clear) and that the gas cap vent is OPEN when riding. Timing is fixed at 25 degrees before TDC at the F mark alignment. Points should just break open at the F mark. Valve clearances are critical on these small motors. .002" COLD for both intake and exhaust valves at TDC compression stroke.

There are tons of mini-trail type websites out there, plus lots of stuff on EBay all the time. Duplicator makes silver wheel paint for steel wheels that is pretty good for that application. Suzuki makes many models of bikes, and all the wheels are different. I would need your model and engine. Size to figure out which wheel you have.

Some models may have a clutch safety switch. Also there is a disconnect switch which turns off the lights while starting. If you have a millimeter or test light, check for power to your solenoid. Turn on the key, pull clutch lever, pushes the starter button and you should have power at the solenoid on the red/yellow and red/green wires.

They may be just yellow and green) If there is power their (12volts) and your battery is good, the solenoid should work. If it does nothing it is likely defective. A defective unit can be checked even off the bike. Ask the dealer to check it. If it doesn't connect the two big posts when activated it is defective for sure.
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