Successful model shipbuilding is not all mechanics. Modelers should possess a background knowledge of essential nautical practices that serve them well in the process of modeling. Good workmanship is very important, because when flagrant errors and nautical boners occur, the finished product looks ridiculous and amateurish.
Ship identification, rigging standards, correct flags and figureheads that provide the professional touch to the complete model, are all important and will furnish confidence to the modeler in every phase of modeling.
Standardization of Model Rigging
Lacking any overall authority to regulate and specify proper rigging, modelers often become confused concerning the best pattern to follow.
Now that the horrendous creature the ship out of water with all sails set- has gone out of fashion, the time is opportune for senior modelers to set up standards that exhibit the beauty and dignity of sailing ships. No other man-made object has portrayed such a panorama of beauty down through the centuries as sailing ships, and the onus is on us to preserve this beauty for future generations.
Art and craftsmanship since time began have striven to portray objects of beauty in their natural surrounding; not to create hermaphrodite monstrosities like ships with all sails set, showing their keels and bottoms at the same time. Even if hobbiests and old seamen continue to produce these perverted deformities, modelers and craftsmen should be faithful to their art. My visualization of suitable rigs that bring out the natural beauty and retain the ship's normal surroundings is as follows:
Symbolic Rigged Models
The importance of symbolic rigged model yachts is becoming more and more manifest because they can be exhibited in offices and homes where space is limited. The elimination of tall spars and rigging which are common to all yachts of a given class, provides greater emphasis on essential features of the hull and deck layout.
Variations in sail and rigging plans of yawls of a ship like Cotton Blossom IV are quite unimportant. What is necessary is the unrestricted view of the hull lines, sheer and overhangs. People want to see what makes the ship go. The clean sweep of Cotton Blossom's hull lines from pulpit to aspit are shown in bolder relief because there is no distraction by non-essentials.
This model was shown for the first time at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club during the Ocean Race of 1960, and was acclaimed by all the senior yachtsmen, because the method allows a larger scale to be used on deck fittings and hull, with half the space that the older types required.
Many owners of private yachts make alterations in deck layout and gadgets to suit their own purposes. Half models cannot exhibit these changes which are precious to the owner. The larger scale permitted on symbolic rigged models provides room for every item.
There is a firm in England that can supply working models of all the deck fittings winches, anchor cranes, windlasses, binnacles, etc. These items add to the appearance of the finished product, enhance the scope of the craftsman and increases the value of the model.
Cotton Blossom IV nee Halloween was built by Will Fyfe in 1932. She is 72' long and 14' beam. Nothing that has been built since reaches or surpasses the beauty of Fyfe's masterpiece.
The model was built for her owner and skipper Walter Wheeler Jr., Stamford, Conn.
Full Rigged Models
To get the best results in full rigged models, canvas may be included, providing the sails are furled on the yards, and the hull is the waterline type. In this case the yards are lowered and all the sails' control lines are in position. The waterline hull enhances the sheer lines of the model and depicts its true stance and trim of a ship at anchor. Sails furled or stowed on the yards do not hide the graceful rigging lines or require a glass case to protect them.
More could be said about authenticity in model ship building, but this will get you off on the right foot.
Uss Enterprise Model Ship
Before beginning to fashion the model, materials, tools and supplies must be collected. It is good practice to begin with only essential items, because these things have a habit of accumulating. The most useful items in the modeler's workshop are the Suppliers' Catalogs, lots of them. They reveal a wealth of information that is of untold value to the student.
Modeler's Tools and Their Uses
The tools listed are sufficient for the student modeler, with the exception of a mechanic's vice which is useful for holding small parts to be shaped. Some modelers prefer a carpenter's vice but I have never felt the need for one. The mechanic's vice provides more even pressure when gluing parts together, and for numerous other operations. Put a piece of cloth between the jaws to prevent injury to the finish of the object to be held.
Item 1. The fret saw is used to shape wood parts. Thick wood requires a coarser tooth blade, while fine tooth blades are more suitable for thin woods.
Item 2. The hand plane is an all purpose tool.
Item 3. The spokeshave is required to smooth down rough surfaces that are too rough for the plane.
Item 4. Snips are used for cutting wire and snipping the heads off pins and brads used for fastening parts to the hull.
Item 5. Two or more rules are needed; a large one for general use and a fine 1/32nd scale for deck houses and other small parts.
Item 6. Dividers, equipped with a marking pencil, have many uses. They can be set in position to gauge the waterline, or used to mark off circular or semi-circular items where required.
Item 7. The Collet Drill. This little tool is one of most useful in the whole kit. It is only four inches long and has a chuck at both ends to take drills from 1/32nd to 1/8th. It is operated with one hand, leaving the other free to hold the object. For reaming out holes in blocks and deadeyes; for drilling through the masts, and for pilot holes for pins and screws, it has no equal.
Item 8. The all purpose knife called a linoleum cutter. For model work in general it serves many purposes. It has spare blades in the handle which can be kept razor sharp with an oil stone. It is excellent for cutting thin woods by scoring on both sides and will leave a clean precision edge when broken off.
Item 9. Self locking tweezers are very useful for stropping blocks and deadeyes; for fishing rope ends in among the rigging and for tying knots in awkward places.
Item 10. Two sizes of screwdrivers are needed; a medium size for rough work like hull assembly, and a small one for such tiny screws as those that fasten the chain plates to the hull.
Item 11. A soldering iron is needed for metal bands on the yards and spars.
Item 12. A set of small files: round, half round, flat and square come in handy for fashioning smallwares.
Item 13. At least four small clamps with about two inch opening will be needed to hold small items together while the glue is drying.
Item 14. Chisels are handy tools about the hull; a one inch size and a one-quarter inch size will be sufficient.
Item 15. A pair of scissors with a fine point is needed to get in among the rigging to cut the ends off close; also for trimming ratlines.
Item 16. The Little Giant plane is a very important item. The subject of carving knives occupies many pages in the suppliers' catalog and elsewhere, but these little planes are more convenient than any of them for smoothing the contours of the hull. One of them has two separate radiuses to get into difficult places; the other is flat. Both use discarded razor blades.
Now you have the tools required, it is time to commence building a model ship!
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