In Delhi, Ambassador cars still line up outside the Lutyens Government buildings. These cars are based on the 1948 Morris Oxford design and are still made in India today. Although the President now has a BMW, the lower ranks will be motoring around in their sixty year old cars for some time. One of reasons Ambassador have kept on going is because they are strong enough to cope with India's roads. Road widening is now commonly seen as the poor roads are seen as a brake on economic growth. Much of the digging work is done by (locally made) JCB's, but a lot is still done by labourers, usually women who excavate earth in baskets and carry it away on their heads. What would these people do if they were all replaced by machines? In many ways everyone has a vested interest in resisting change, as doing these people out of their jobs who just mean more beggars living on the streets of the cities.

For the tourist India can be overwhelming, and it has certainly become a more stressful place to visit. Touts seem to be almost everywhere and the traveler is bombarded by questions all the time. 'Do you want a rickshaw?' ‘Look in my shop?' ‘What country?' or simply ‘What do you want?' Even more irritating are the people who seem to think they know want you want, so they give you orders like, ‘You need to go over there now' or having supposedly read your mind, tell you where the ticket office is, even as you walk down the street minding your own business. Normally there is an ulterior motive for all this free advice, usually a postcard or rickshaw sales pitch. Add to all this, the children following you down the street shouting ‘Hello, Hello' and tourists often feel they are under siege.

Also the Indian tourist industry hasn't worked out what foreign tourists really want. So in a country awash with cheap labour, hotel walls are grubby, and things often look like they haven't had a good clean for years. Of course if you pay out real money you can expect the best but for most Indians in the tourist trade, if they think they can offer it to you cheaply, then everything will be all right, no matter if every corner is cut. After all, it wouldn't do to interfere with all that newspaper reading time. In Nepal, they've worked out the standards that tourists expect and consequently, overall, it offers a much better travel experience. Not surprisingly, it's a country that allows foreigners to own a business, which pulls the standards up; in India this is almost impossible.

So what's the future for India? The economy is supposed to be overheating and a downturn is expected. Inflation is on the increase and the Congress party recently got hammered in state polls because of the price of onions, which shows what really matters for most Indians. I think though, due to strength of numbers alone the economy will continue to grow and people will get richer in relative terms. I can't imagine large parts of the country will be like the Delhi metro anytime soon; there are too many vested interests in keeping things the same. But the cities will become even more frantic, with more traffic and gridlock and the blare of the horns being heard on the other side of the world.