FURNITURE POLISHES fall into two main classes oils and waxes. Both have their advocates. For a discussion of these see "Furniture Polish" in the index. After choosing the type you want to use, continue with it or you may find yourself in trouble. Even a little oil polish on a treated duster can gum up a waxed finish. Both types are good if they are used correctly. Oil polishes however should be avoided for blonde finishes because they tend to make wood a little dark. Select a light colored wax. Some polishes clean as they go; always read and follow the directions given for the kind you select.

APPLY POLISH SPARINGLY. Whether you decide upon oil or wax for your furniture, the first thing to remember is that it should be applied very sparingly. If too much is used it will be difficult to achieve a fine polish. It is better for the furniture, and easier for you, to apply a second thin coating if this seems desirable, than to struggle with a heavy application that has made the finish sticky.

RUB POLISH WELL. The second things to remember is that there is no substitute for hard rubbing; do only a few pieces at a time. After you have applied a thin coating of polish, let it stand a little while (consult the directions for your brand), then rub it with the grain of the wood until a clean finger leaves no mark. Finish with a soft flannel polisher, putting a brush inside the cloth for a good job on carved surfaces. And if you want the best results possible on chests and desks, you should take the handles off the drawers.

TO MAKE YOUR OWN FURNITURE POLISH: a mixture of gum turpentine and raw linseed oil in equal parts is an old standby; another polish highly recommended by an expert in such matters consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and vinegar. As with standard polishes, the best results with these will be had if you use them sparingly and follow them with elbow grease.

FOR THE ORDINARY DUSTING OF FURNITURE always use a clean soft duster or the dusting attachment of your vacuum cleaner. Use treated dusters only on furniture that has been oil-polished.

MINOR CASUALTIES TO FURNITURE frequently can be dealt with satisfactorily at home. Light scratches and scars can often be made practically invisible by extra hard rubbing with polish alone. Some polishes are made especially for this purpose. Others contain stains that make even a fairly deep scratch inconspicuous. In a pinch you can rub a scratch on dark wood with a cut walnut meat to darken it.

WATER STAINS ON DINING AND COCKTAIL TABLES, not protected by special finishes, can be fairly well prevented by repeated thin applications of hard wax, well rubbed in. To remove a water mark from a waxed surface, first try wiping it with liquid wax to remove the old wax finish, and then apply a fresh coating of wax. To remove a water stain from an oiled finish use a little camphor or peppermint oil on a cloth wrung out of warm water containing a few drops of ammonia. If neither method removes the mark, rub it very lightly, in the direction of the grain, with a thin paste made of rottenstone or fine pumice, and linseed oil. Remove this with a cloth moistened with plain linseed oil and polish the spot. This same technique usually will remove heat spots too. Cigar ash can pinch-hit for the rottenstone or pumice.

How do I treat the scratches and scars on the furniture? What shall I do to make the invisible? Use the oils and waxes according to the type of the material of the furniture. When you wax the furniture, you have to remember to applied very sparingly for a fine polish. Use the soft flannel polisher for the finishing. Light scratches and scars can be made invisible by extra hard rubbing with the polish. Water stains on the tables can be removed using the wax with the direction.