When paddling out to surf, you have a few different choices to make. You can ditch your board, paddle over the top, dive early or try to paddle under the lip. Deciding what to do is all just a matter of experience. When paddling out, always charge straight at the wave as hard as you can. Even if you think you're going to get beat by the wave, just keep paddling straight toward the wave. The wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you will be surprised at how quickly you can get there, and possible even slip right under the lip.
The trick to piercing an already broken wave is depth. You need to get below the broken water of the wave into the calm water below and keep swimming forward. The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave. Duck dive deep, or ditch your surfboard and dive down. As the wave passes over you, push off with your feet and streamline your body. As soon as you break the surface, get back on your surfboard and paddle like crazy.
When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where your head goes, your body follows. Lead with your head. If you want to go down the face of the wave, you have to keep your head down. Stretch your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle. Only when you are sure you are sliding down the face of the wave should you slide lithely to your feet and start dealing with your bottom turn.
