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Video on Custom Cloth Alteration Tips.

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Custom Cloth Alteration Tips.
Jessica Thomson
Getting correct tips is always a problem. In fact sometimes it is dangerous. Faulty clothing alterations can spoil the favorite cloth. Having the ability to modify clothing will open up many new possibilities with fabrics and textiles. Sometimes it's necessary to alter existing clothes for a better fit.
It is very important to use a fresh needle with every project as blunt needles can cause all sorts of problems from skipped or broken stitching to snags and holes in the fabric. Also, use the right type of needle for the fabric being sewn - lightweight fabrics need finer needles, denim and heavyweight fabrics should be sewn with Jeans needles whilst stretchy fabrics need a ball point or stretch needle. Most needles are inserted with flat part of the shank to the back (check user manual). Unscrew the screw to push the needle up as far as possible and then tighten again - use screwdriver to make final turn to ensure the needle doesn't work loose when sewing. Another reason for jerking and uneven stitching is the thread spool jumping along the spindle. Hold it in place by adding a thread retainer disc to the spindle, pushed close up against thread spool. Straight stitches are the most commonly used type of stitch. These can include regular straight stitch of course but also ease stitch, stay stitch gathering or basting. The difference is in the length of stitch and the purpose of it. Often the description is not necessarily how the stitch is formed, more the purpose it is used for. Zigzag stitches - the length and width can be altered to create bigger or smaller stitches that are formed wider apart or very close (for satin stitch - very close zigzag). For stretch fabrics, such as knits, T-shirting and jerseys use a small zigzag stitch, or if available on your machine, a stretch stitch. This will help the seam flex and stretch as necessary to pull over your head etc, without the stitching breaking. The fabric type and number of layers determines the correct stitch length. Sheer lightweight fabrics are best sewn with small stitches, thus start with stitch length of 2 mm whereas fleece fabric is thicker and needs a longer stitch length to prevent fabric puckering and threads breaking. Try a stitch length of 3.5 mm. always press seams before they are sewn over again. Pressing embeds the stitches and helps the seam lie flat. Press from the wrong side and then the right side, protecting the fabric with a press cloth. Clipping and notching curved areas - this will help the seam allowances lie flat when the fabric is turned through to the right side. Clip inner curves by snipping into the seam allowance diagonally. Notch outer curves by cutting small wedge shapes from the seam allowance.
Custom means that everything will fit right - and if you need to have a lot of alterations done on ready-made clothes, it may be an economical alternative. Always know to keep it right as it may look drastically too ugly or bad. Always remember custom alteration can only be as good as the fitting. It is really important to have a perfect fit, some of these ideas may work for body shape and others may not. Alteration is often necessary to achieve good fit in a garment. Making adjustments or alterations before the garment is cut from fabric will eliminate many problems.
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