Oily skin isn't unhealthy The oil glands within the follicles are simply genetically programmed to be more active in response to hormonal stimulation. This stepped-up production of sebum is bothersome because the oil gives skin a shiny appearance. Although oily skin is perceived as being moist, it may actually lack sufficient structural lipids. So one of the main objectives of this regimen is to reduce the shine without removing too much of the skin's natural moisturizers, which help optimize the skin's water content.

I recommend a cleanser that is a little more active in removing the surface oils than the one I suggest for normal/combination skin. The toner is similar. You may want to work more exfoliation into your regimen by using a cleanser with hydroxy acids on alternate days or more often if your skin seems to respond well to it. Then, while the skin is still moist from the toner, give it a boost of antioxidants to combat the radicals in the environment. Allow the antioxidant treatment a few minutes to seep into your skin, then seal in all those powerful free radical-fighting ingredients with a light, vitamin-enriched moisturizer. For sun protection, use an oil-free sunblock. The micron zed particles of titanium give your skin a matte finish that helps minimize the shine of oily skin.

In the morning you'll take your multivitamin, calcium, fatty acids, and antioxidant and collagen-building supplements . According to the cosmetician, to boost the power of your sunblock, take a pomegranate supplement as well. In the evening, you'll treat your facial skin to an overall acne treatment product that not only addresses the various factors that contribute to breakouts but contains collagen builders, such as retinol, along with exfoliating and hydrating ingredients. If you do have an occasional breakout, you can apply a more potent acne spot treatment. However, if breakouts are a daily problem, see "Acne" in the Special Concerns Program. You can follow the treat-and-repair step with a moisturizer of structural lipids and soothing botanicals only You don't need an emollient or occlusive moisturizer at night.

In the evening, take fatty acids and antioxidant and collagenbuilding supplements. Every week, you'll give yourself a special vitamin C treatment to saturate your skin with antioxidants. And if you can, have a professional vitamin C infusion at least once every season

DRY SKIN

Your skin is the most fragile of all the skin types. The lack of oil and structural lipids allows the moisture to escape into the environment. And the dryness and the compromised barrier function have made your skin vulnerable to irritants and inflammation. The emphasis of every step in every regimen is hydration, but delivering water-attracting and water-holding molecules to the skin is especially important to you. Avoiding anything that might irritate is crucial. In some cases where some mild irritation is unavoidable-such as with exfoliation-you need even more skin soothers in everything you use.

Your cleanser cosmetic must be very gentle, and I suggest one that has more hydrating ingredients than anything else. If your skin is very dry, I suggest that for at least one of the two times a day that you cleanse your face, you don't rinse with water but tissue off the cleanser. The toner you choose should not contain a drying type of alcohol but must be rich in hydrating and skin-soothing ingredients. Then, while the skin is still moist from the toner, give it a boost of antioxidants to combat the free radicals in the environment. Give the antioxidant treatment a few minutes to seep into your skin, and then seal in all those powerful free radical-fighting ingredients with a light, vitamin-enriched moisturizer.

If you need extra sun protection, choose a sunscreen with chemicals that absorb light as well as micronized titanium to block ultraviolet radiation. You also want your sunscreen to contain soothing botanicals and structural lipids. An oil-free sunblock may be too drying for your skin. If your skin begins to feel dry and tight during the day, try a moisturizing serum that is primarily structural lipids. You can use one that contains only structural lipids or one that also includes skin- soothing botanical extracts. Or you can use both and alternate between them.