A scenic hill station nestled in the Kumaon hills, Nainital is renowned for its idyllic boat rides. Though said to be crowded to the point of claustrophobia during peak tourist season, luckily when I first stepped into its emerald realm in early June, it was quiet and tranquil. The history of this sleepy town sails over the surface of the Naini Lake. According to Hindu mythology, Goddess Parvati wedded Lord Shiva despite her father's disapproval. One day, the king held a sacred yagna and did not invite Lord Shiva. Parvati demanded an explanation, and on receiving insults, threw herself in the sacrificial fire.

Lord Shiva was devastated and danced the Tandava [dance of destruction] with her body on his shoulders. To save the universe from annihilation, Lord Vishnu sliced Parvati's body into pieces with his Sudershan Chakra. As each piece hit the ground, it turned to stone. The eye that fell at Nainital, however, turned to water. Hence the name 'Nainital' [Eye lake]. Today, Naini Lake offers a different kind of bounty: clear, calm waters, a nippy breeze, and a maze of cayes, coves, and atolls ? conditions that make Nainital the most alluring sailing destination in India.

Its popularity is further enhanced by breathtaking views of the lush hillside. A slew of boat rental agencies have recently cropped up on the sleepy town, offering a stylish alternative to powerboats. Non-divers will also enjoy the freedom bare boats offers. The boats are easy to operate?only one crew member needs sailing experience. Snorkeling enthusiasts and fishermen will find plenty to keep them wide-eyed. For us, the highlight of the three-day trip was a friend's engagement ceremony and festivities at the charming Boat House Club, established in 1890.

The club offers temporary membership, which entitles visitors to use the spacious dining room, lounge bar, billiards room, and deck. This club is the hub of Nainital's lively social life. It was one evening; standing out on the deck, looking at the stars reflected in the lake, that I thought to myself, Nainital is no longer the name of a faraway lake town in the hills. Shopaholics can check out the Mall, Mallital and Tallital bazaars, and the Tibetan market for woolens, wooden bric-a-brac, candles, and walking sticks. The candle making industry is thriving in Nainital and retail outlets have mushroomed all over town. The repertoire is simply amazing ... candles moulded into grape-clad trees, fruits, fairies, frosted pastries ? and Santa Claus! And yes, they are so brilliant that I am going to think twice before lighting them!