Those, which normally cause little damage but are liable to increase under certain conditions, such as hot weather, rain, etc. Keep these pests under observation and should be dealt with if they show signs of increasing.

Those, which cause severe damage every year. Take preventive measure before they appear, or destroy them as soon as they are first seen.

Ants- Ants are harmless and are only looking for sweet nectar or the sticky substances that are produced by such creatures as aphids. In themselves they do not generally harm plants but their presence is a clear sign that other more damaging pest are around.

Control- Pyrethrum power in a puffer canister for applying to ant's nests and runs. Ant Deterrent: - Deter ants by spraying with vinegar around door and window frames, under appliances, and along other known ant trails. Ant invasions can often be deterred from the kitchen by washing counter tops, cabinets and floors with distilled vinegar. Do not use vinegar near plants, as it will kill them.

Aphids- These tiny soft-bodied creatures are the most abundant pests in the garden, and most plants, including vegetables, are liable to attack by one or more species of aphids. Aphid's feed by sucking the sap from a plant and by congregating in their hundreds and in some instances thousands, on tender young growth, they can quickly suck the life out of the plant or at least stunt and disfigure the growth. To add to this they can also transmit virus disease, which can often wipe out an entire crop. They excrete honeydew that attracts ants, which in turn, protect the aphids from predators. Aphids may or may not have wings and may be green or brown. Eggs that hatch in spring produce mostly female aphids. These first generation females feed in masses on plants, and can give birth to live young without a male. Then later in the season, new generations mate and produce eggs during autumn, which will hatch the following spring.

Ladybird larvae can eat aphids rapidly and in large numbers. Lacewing moths and their larvae also devour aphids. There is a way, in most cases, to easily control aphid populations (until the beneficial insects arrive several weeks later) without the use of chemicals.

Many people are discovering that the control of aphids and other pests is within the general management of the land, enrichment of the soil and good horticulture husbandry, clearing away debris and waste after harvesting crops, weed control, all assist in controlling many pests. However, a garlic spray or a weak application of Insecticidal soap should help to eliminate these sapsuckers. Insecticidal soap also controls red spider, white fly and many other pests.

Insecticidal soap- One of the most useful sprays in the garden. The commercial varieties work a little better than the homemade version of a tablespoon of dish washing liquid in a quart of water. It must be reapplied at least once a week, more if there is a heavy rain or a heavy infestation. This is a great control on all types of aphids and whitefly.

When watering your plants, spray water on the leaves of the aphid-infested plants, using slight pressure (be careful not to injure the plant). The purpose is to hose off the aphids. Do this early in the morning or later in the day, when the sun isn't shining directly on the leaves. Then repeat this procedure every two or three days. This will reduce the population and minimize plant damage until the predators come. If predators are washed off, they won't be harmed. The aphids, however, take a long time to find the plant again, and once on the ground are more likely to be eaten before they can recover their bearings.

Chafer Grubs- Surprisingly, masked chafer grubs cause well 0ver 50% of all lawn-grub damage. We tend to blame Japanese beetle grubs, since the adults are so visible and destructive. By contrast, the adult masked chafer is not often seen, as it feeds at night. The grub is flat and curved. It feeds on grass roots, resulting in brown dead patches. Control- There is a good biological control in the form of a parasitic nematode, which can be purchased from the Garden Centres. Easy and simple to use just spray onto the grass where in time, each grub in your lawn becomes a hatchery for 35,000 or more juvenile nematodes that search the soil to find live grubs to infect. If you have a large number of grubs in your lawn - either masked chafer grubs or Japanese beetle grubs (or if you are not sure which) - products such as Grub-Away offers excellent control for the current growing season and right through next spring. They also kill flea, weevil larva or other insects. After entering the host's body, the nematode releases bacteria, which kill most insects within 48 hours.

Codling Moth- (Cydia pomonella). Plants affected Apples, pears, and less frequently, quinces, walnuts. Adult codling moths emerge in late May and lay eggs on or near developing fruits from June to mid-July. After hatching the small white, brown-headed caterpillars bore into the fruits and feed in the core region. The pest over winters as non-feeding caterpillars under loose flakes of bark and they pupate in spring. The maggot's exit hole is often visible in the side of the ripe fruit or at the 'eye' end, opposite to the stalk. When the fruit is cut open you can see the frass-filled core and tunnel of the maggot.

Control- Pheromone traps. More accurate timing of spray applications can be achieved using a codling moth pheromone trap, which are sold by most garden shops. This opensided box is hung in the tree in early May. The bottom of the box has a sticky sheet on which you place the pheromone pellet, which exudes a scent similar to that produced by virgin female codling moths to attract mates. Male moths lured into the trap get stuck. If you count the trapped males every week and follow the instructions that come with the trap you can calculate the best time to spray. A pheromone trap on its own cannot control codling moths, but on isolated trees it may catch enough males to reduce the females' mating success so fewer fertile eggs will be laid .