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Assos: An Aegean Pearl
Ambrid John
The mystery behind the stones spreads out from the narrow streets and houses and castle of Behramkale down to the meadows below and the vast sea beyond Cappadocia: Situated in the heart of Turkey, amidst a unique landscape of volcanic tufa rock sculpted by the continuous erosion of the elements. It is a biblical land, the land of St. Paul, where the first Christians carved churches and dwellings out of fairy chimneys and dug subterranean cities to evade the Uralo-Altaic invaders.
Although Assos is a long seven-hour drive from Istanbul through Thrace and across the Dardanelles, this enchanting seaside village provides a restful and an intellectual retreat. Also known as Behramkale, the tiny village is divided into two halves stretching along the quays of the old harbor and climbing up the rocky hill above.
The temple of Athena, a majestic Doric ruin of grey stone, is one of the most important antique sites in the region. It stands atop the highest rocky outcrop of a cliff above the Aegean Sea and looks across to the Greek island of Lesbos. The agora and gymnasium are visible from the steep road that descends to the sea.
The mystery behind the stones spreads out from the narrow streets, houses and castle of Behramkale down to the meadows below and the vast sea beyond. Historians recall that the city of Assos was founded by Aeolians from the city of Methymna on the island of Lesbos (Mytilene) and that it was under Lydian rule from 560-547 B.C. and Persian rule from 547-479 B.C., later gaining its independence and becoming a member of the Athenian Naval League.
Assos is ideal for days of pleasure and romance. In a successful attempt at architecturally sensitive tourist development, many of the hotels in Assos are built from local stone and blend in wonderfully with the village's older buildings.
Assos (Behramkale, Asos), though an ancient Aeolian city, has made its mark as a tourist attraction only at the end of the 1980s. With a rocky hillside to lean upon, the city is set above the charming and unspoiled finishing village of Behramkale in the Aegian region.
If you are planning a quiet holiday far away from the maddening crowd, then this small, romantic Turkish province is the best choice. Assos (Behramkale, Asos) promises a vintage charm like never before.
History of Assos
Aeolian colonists from Lesbos laid the foundation of Assos (Behramkale, asos) in the 7th century B.C., which passed under Lydian rule some 100 years later. In 546 B.C. when the Lydians were defeated in the hands of Persians, the beginning of Persian rule in Assos (Behramkale, asos) was marked. Some of the prominent Persian governors of the region were Ariobarzanes, Euboulos, Hermias. Hermius, who was a eunuch, was a pupil of Plato and a friend of Aristotle.
The later stayed in Assos (Behramkale, asos) from 348-345 B.C. Alexander invaded the city in 334 B.C. and later it was attached to the Pergamon kingdom (241-133 B.C.). Pergamon rule was succeeded by Roman rule and consequently by Byzantine Empire. After 395A.D., i.e. during the Byzantine rule, the city came to be known as Makhram. Finally with Murad I ascending the throne in 1359 A.D., Assos came under Ottoman rule, which ended in 1389 A.D.
Main Attractions in Assos
There are many attractions in the historical city of Assos including the Acropolis, the temple of Athena, and the Kadirga Beach. In this part, we will present an introduction to these attractions.
The Acropolis
The acropolis at Assos is built on a hill, 236m above the sea level. Dating back to as early as the Bronze Age, the acropolis is endowed with some awe-inspiring Greek ruins. The remains of a 2500 years old defense wall (3km of which is still intact) and the ruins of the Doric-style temple of Goddess Athena are some of them.
Apart from the ruins, this town is located above the modern harbor of Assos (Behramkale, Asos) also boasts of some magnificent views like those of the tranquil Aegean Sea or the Greek island of Lesvos. To reach the town you require a straight uphill climb along the cliff road for about 30-45 minutes.
Temple of Athena
The temple of Athena (530 B.C.) situated on top of the city is surrounded by olive groves and encompassed by crumbling city walls and an ancient necropolis (cemetery). The temple entails six columns on the short side and thirteen columns on the long side outside the building. Nearby the temple stands the Ottoman Murad Hudavendigar mosque, a 14th century structure.
Kadirga Beach
This beach is quite beautiful, long and fairly isolated. It is conveniently accessible and you require only half-an-hour walk along the coast or a descend along the back of the citadel, to reach it.
Another picturesque spot is the Hamlet called Iskele (dock, wharf), which is located at the edge of the Aegean Sea. This charming place is dotted with old stone houses that are used as inns, pensions and restaurants. Some other must-sees of Assos (Behramkale, Asos) are the Amphitheatre, ancient watchtowers, etc.
Activities in Assos
Tourists flock in large number in this small, serene Aegean town of Assos, which is far off from the hustle-bustle of the more famous tourist spots of Turkey. Assos promises lots of activities and thus caters to the interests of different age group of visitors.
Day trips can be arranged to visit the famed ruins of Greek and the Roman city of Troy. These are about a 45 minutes drive from Assos (Behramkale, Asos), towards the North. Tourist buses are available or you can avail private conveyance to reach the spot. A solitary walk amidst the ruins, especially at night, is really therapeutic.
Water-loving visitors can indulge in leisurely swimming and Kadyrga beach and Antique harbor are best for swimming.
If you are a marketing freak then you can find some of the best quality olive oil, soap or carpets in this region. Some good handicraft items of this place are handmade towels, laces, etc. However it's essential to bargain before purchasing.
Assos Restaurants
You can try selections from the Turkish cuisine in Assos, in various restaurants. Hasanaki - Hasanaki happens to be the most famous fish restaurant of Assos (Behramkale, Asos). Located amidst the camping sites around Ayvacik, this beach restaurant stands on a highway, which runs parallel to the sea. At sunset, the tables are placed on the sandy beach and the fresh air complement the fresh and delicious foods served at the Hasanaki restaurant. Local fishermen supply fresh fishes, octopus, squids, shrimps, etc and the vegetables are also grown in the neighboring farms.
Fenerlihan - This restaurant has a tranquil charm as it stands on the water at the end of the harbor. It offers magnificent views of the sunset as well as a mouth-watering array of foods. Though Fenerlihan restaurant provides a wide variety of traditional Turkish foods, its main focus is on seafood. Here you can make your choice from the fresh supply of Mackerel, Red snapper, Sea bass, etc and can also select the style of cooking like grilled or fried. Often there are live music shows at night.
and Transportation
To reach Assos (Behramkale, Asos), you need to avail a bus from Ayvalik or Canakkale, which will drop you at Ayvacik ? 19km away from Assos (Behramkale, Asos). From here you can avail either a minibus or taxi to reach Assos (Behramkale, Asos). The nearest airports to Assos (Behramkale, Asos) are Canakkale (small) and Izmir (big).
In Assos (Behramkale, Asos), there are various types of accommodation facilities. Some of the recommendable hotels include:
Assos park hotel - This pleasant and extremely comfortable four-star hotel stands a few kilometers away from the main township of Assos and the famed ruins. The main features of the hotel are comfortable rooms, outdoor dinning area, a beautiful pool, access to private beach and sumptuous Turkish cuisine.
Caravansarai hotel - In Turkey several caravansarais have been converted into hotels and this is undoubtedly the best among them. Located on the harbor, this hotel with a stunning exterior promises magnificent views and access to swimming in the crystal clear water. Salient features of this hotel are large rooms, air conditioning, outside eating area, a bar and a smaller restaurant for snacking.
Other good hotels of the area are Assos Eden beach hotel, Nazlihan boutique hotel and the Assos Eden Gardens hotel.
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