ALLANTOIN is a chemical extracted from the comfrey root. It is an anti-irritant with healing and soothing properties that makes an excellent additive in face creams, masks and lotions.

ALMOND OIL is a vegetable oil extracted from almond seeds. It stays fresher longer than many other similar nut oils and for this reason it is used in many skin care products.

ALOE VERA is a natural moisturizer. It serves as a delivery system for other vitamins and nutrients in skin care products and can probably be considered an essential ingredient in almost all skin care products.

ALPHA LIPOIC ACID is an anti-oxidant with a powerful anti-inflammatory effect. The fat soluble portion of alpha lipoic acid is of tremendous benefit to the skin. Substances that are water soluble do not penetrate the skin very well, but fat soluble molecules do penetrate.

ASCORBIC ACID is a water soluble form of Vitamin C which promotes collagen production. Vitamin C also has anti-inflammatory properties and defends against free radicals in the skin created by sunlight, ozone and harsh chemicals.

CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) EXTRACT is from chamomile which is one of the few herbs that has any value for the skin. A mild mixture of chamomile leaves produces an oily substance that is soothing to the skin. Matricaria is a derivative of chamomile that some experts believe hastens skin healing.

DMAE is a nutritional substance that can be found in fish such as salmon. It is an anti-inflammatory, anti-aging topical agent that increases skin health, tone and radiance. A landmark study in which DMAE and alpha lipoic acid were combined in a topical solution showed marked resolution in scarring for patients with surgical scars when applied twice daily. It can also reduce the severity of atrophic (indented) acne scars. DMAE can also act as a penetration enhancer to increase the anti-inflammatory effects of alpha lipoic acid. Topical application of DMAE has a cumulative effect and can decrease the appearance of large pores over time.

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL is a source of GLA (Gamma Linoleic Acid), an Omega-6 essential fatty acid which is a potent anti-inflammatory agent.

GLYCERIN is a clear, syrupy liquid made by chemically combining water and fat. The water splits the fat into smaller components, glycerol and fatty acids. It improves the spreading quality of creams and lotions and prevents them from losing water through evaporation.

GRAPESEED EXTRACT is important to skin care because it protects collagen from damage by free radicals, dampens inflammation and helps maintain the health and integrity of blood vessels.

GREEN TEA EXTRACT helps protect the skin from damaging free radicals. It contains powerful anti-oxidants called polyphenols that are also excellent anti-inflammatories.

HYALURONIC ACID is a substance found in human cells that helps hold moisture in the skin, as much as 300 times its own weight in water. This is an extremely effective ingredient that can also be quite costly.

JOJOBA OIL is an expensive oil extracted from the jojoba seed that can provide a good film of moisture.

KERATIN is the protein that is the primary constituent of the hair, nails and skin.

OMEGA-3 and -6 OILS are essential fatty acids important to skin health. The Omega-3 essential fatty acids dramatically reduce the body's production of inflammatory compounds. The active ingredients in Omega-6 oils are derived from linoleic acid.

PANTHENOL is a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory.

SQUALENE is a substance derived from shark lipid that contains large quantities of Vitamins A and D and has very good emollient properties.

TRIETHANOLAMINE is an alkali that handles oil well by emulsifying it.

UBIQUINONE preserves the anti-oxidant action of Vitamin C and protects cell membranes against oxidative damage.

UREA is a natural substance that removes dead, dry skin cells. Urea both soothes dry skin and stimulates cell growth in the epidermis. It is a valuable additive in moisturizers. It is an aquaphilic compound that both attracts water and prevents its loss. It is the dry epidermis' best friend. Acne-prone people should also use products containing urea as it seals in moisture without clogging pores.

VITAMIN A is probably the most important vitamin involved in the appearance of the skin. It can pas through the skins' layers and may exert an effect on the rate of keratinization of the skin. It is also an excellent ingredient in acne preparations, dry skin care and soothing creams for burns and irritated skin. Retinyl palmitate is a form of Vitamin A that some studies indicate turns into Retin-A (the acidic form of Vitamin A) in the skin. Retin-A appears to be one of the only products that when applied to the surface of the skin reduces lines and wrinkles and restores pink color to aging skin.

VITAMIN D is absorbed through the skins' outer layers. There is some evidence demonstrating that it exerts a healing effect on the skin when applied topically. It seems to work particularly well when combined with Vitamin A.

VITAMIN E is a powerful anti-oxidant.

This list in fairly comprehensive but by no means exhaustive. It is important to note that many of the above ingredients work well together and can have a synergistic effect when combined.