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You've finally decided that you want to build your own model railway and the train table that it will need to sit on. Often the first choice for a layout will be a table top or a sheet of plywood. Although this may seem the easiest way, it definitely has its restrictions.
The biggest of these drawbacks is that everything must be on top, and nothing can be below ground level (or table level). That's when most modelers realize the need to build their own tables to be able to accommodate any sort of and landscape they could dream up. First, you need to plan carefully the size, relative weight of different sections, and design of your new layout. If one section is more scenery intensive, it will require more attention to support. An L-girder support system has become the standard way to support your model layout, and can be adapted to almost any configuration, providing you with all the strength your layout will need. L-girder bench work is very strong, and still about as inexpensive as you can get. It's a very functional structure, and is easily put together. It is a platform consisting of girders, cross braces and joists, all working together to do the job. Most of the time the joists are about 18 inches apart, but they do not need to be equally spaced. Be careful in choosing the lumber for the table top as well as for the support system. You will need a flat piece for your roadbed to avoid any problems but take care in choosing the support pieces as well. Cheaper grades of lumber may eventually warp and that could spell disaster for your project. If your layout is larger that 4 x 8 you should still keep the pieces to that size to make them easier to transport in case you want to move your layout. Use wood screws from underneath to assemble the bench work cross members as well as the support risers. By doing this you will spare the scenery if you happen to loose a screw. Try not to split the wood by using screws that are too large or by placing them in the wrong spots. Choose any spots carefully that you want to cut for scenery or access. Opinions vary as to whether you should saw holes in the table top before or after the track is placed. Personally, I think it is better to do it all beforehand, as the very act of sawing, regardless of the quality of your tool, can possibly send enough vibrations through your layout to loosen track and ballast, making your previously smoothly running operation into a clackety-clack mess. Just my 2 cents. Tabletop layouts tend to be from 48 to 55 inches high. This is adjustable and if you've bolted it together instead of using nails or screws, you can change it with just a wrench. It's best if you can see the tops of highest hills and grades without needing a step stool. Building a killer train table is nothing if not pre-planning. Take some time with yours and you'll be most pleased! |
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