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Canadian Rockies Lake Louise

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Lake Louise strikes you for two reasons: the absolutely stunning scenery that surrounds it, and its huge size. Lake Louise is located in a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in Canada's first National Park. It has more than 4200 skiable acres (1700 hectares), which makes it one of the largest ski areas in all of North America. What's nice about Lake Louise, it offers all sorts of terrain, from bunny hills and easy green runs, to manageable blue runs and more difficult single and double-black diamond runs.



The terrain is nicely divided into 25% beginner runs, 45% intermediate and 30% for advanced skiers, so there is truly something for everyone. For us who most enjoy blue and single-black diamond runs, Lake Louise was heaven since it offered such a huge selection.

Naturally, such a large area needs to be serviced by a highly efficient lift system, and Lake Louise offers Summit Platter t-bar (which whisks you up to summit area of Mount Whitehorn which clocks in with an altitude of 8,765 feet (2,675 m). There are 7 chairlifts, most of them high-speed, and the Top of the World Chairlift actually holds 6 passengers, this was the first time we saw a 6-passenger chairlift. Our favourite of course was the Grizzly Express Gondola which is more than 2900 m long (over 9500 feet) and in just about 10 minutes takes you up a vertical of more than 2400 feet (736 m). In our skiing experience (essentially East Coast skiing up until now), this was the highest vertical that we ever transcended in the shortest amount of time.

Naturally, Lake Louise Ski Area is a well-known stop on the World Cup Circuit: it hosts the Winterstart Men's & Ladies World Cup Downhill & Super-G Races. Since 1991 Lake Louise has become the traditional venue for the year's first Women's Speed event. We partook of the World Cup spirit by "racing" down the Men's and Women's Downhill Slopes. The steepness of this slopes is astounding, and it is hard to imagine that ski racers actually go down these mountains straight, searching for speed, without making a turn. These two runs, the Men's and Ladies' downhill actually became my favourite runs and they were quite doable (although I didn't go straight down), especially since they were perfectly groomed.

We had a chance to go skiing twice: yesterday and today (after my exciting dog-sledding advanture) , and fortunately for us, today was a perfect winter day with crystal blue skies. The view at Lake Louise on a clear simply knocks your socks off. This mountain panorama is something else. Right when you come out of the gondola you are looking straight at a rugged mountain range whose center is highlighted by a frozen Lake Louise nestled into the Victoria Glacier.

For those who get hungry on the mountain, Lake Louise has a wide variety of choices: The Lodge of the Ten Peaks is located at the base of the gondola, and the place where I enjoyed another nourishing poutine (yes, I do feel guilty...) and a very tasty cream of asparagus. It holds a variety of eating, shopping and pub facilities. Temple Lodge is located in the valley between the Powderbowls and the Larch Area and Whitehorn Lodge is located half way up the south side of the mountain at 6750 ft (2057 m).

Lake Louise has 3 main ski areas: the Front Side or South Face which offers 1100 skiable acres. This area offers a variety of green, blue and single black diamond runs and is quite skiable for intermediate / advanced skiers. The grooming was great and we skied down some smooth mountain slopes, many of them quite steep, but nevertheless very skiable.

Our favourite runs were coming down from the Gondola and taking the Top of the World Express 6-Pack Express where you get to ski above the treeline and since you are on the edge of the mountain you get to see down into the gentler south side and the much more treacherous north side of the mountain.

The "Powderbowls" are located on the north side of the mountain and they are primarily intended for expert skiers. Most of the runs on the north side are single and double black diamond runs. The steepness and the moguls were quite intimidating for us, but nevertheless we found some green and blue runs to get us down safely. Riding up the Ptarmigan Quad Chair it's an awesome sight to watch some of the expert level skiers and how they manage this terrain so skillfully. I have a feeling we'll be sticking to blue and single black diamond runs for the foreseeable future.

Across the Powderbowls is another ski area called the "Larch Area" which offers a vertical drop of about 1230 feet (375 m). This area features mostly green and blue runs, although some of the blue runs (especially a run called the "Wolverine") had some pretty pronounced bumps built into them too. Runs like the Larch and Larch Poma are wide expansive trails with excellent grooming where you can really enjoy gliding down the mountain at pretty high speeds.

For the last hour and a half of our skiing today we made our way back to the South Side, taking the older Ptarmigan Quad back up to the top station of the Gondola. We made it up to the Top of the World a few more times and just couldn't get over the view.

I made sure at 3:50 pm today that I got another run in to the Top of the World and I really took my time going down.
Canadian Rockies Lake Louise
So we planned a trip to the Canadian Rockies, and for both of us it was the first time for us to see this majestic mountain range. Just after we landed on March 4, 2006 we started off with a whirlwind four-hour tour of Calgary to get a sneak peak at Canada's Heart of the New West. Our extremely knowledgeable tour guide took us to the Calgary Tower, Fort Calgary and past the Stampede Grounds and Calgary's Saddledome. Of course Canada Olympic Park was one of the main attractions on this tour.

The same evening we enjoyed a wonderful Italian feast at Il Giardino on 4th Street and we had a chance to get to know one of Calgary's most successful entrepreneurs. We enjoyed the wonderful hospitality of Deirdre and Henry Brost at the historic Twin Gables Bed & Breakfast and got a huge surprise at breakfast when we realized we were enjoying our morning meal with two big celebrities (you'll have to read the article to find out which famous people shared the B&B with us....).

After breakfast we walked all the way from the Twin Gables to downtown from where I took the C-Train to get to the Kensington area, one of Calgary's main restaurant and shopping areas. I had a brief lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant called Indochine Bistro where I found out that the young owner had originally come to Canada as a refugee from Vietnam. What an amazing success story: from Vietnamese boat person to successful Calgary restauranteur....

Then it was time to head west on the Transcanada Highway to our destination for the next week: Banff, a picturesque town nestled inside the famous Banff National Park, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Of course we went skiing and we had a chance to check out 3 major ski resorts: perfectly groomed Norquay, high altitude Sunshine Village - located on the Continental Divide, and the unbelievably huge and scenic ski area of Lake Louise. Well, there is definitely something to be said for West Coast skiing.....

Two outstanding attractions are the historic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel and the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and I had an opportunity to explore both these magnificent structures in detail. Canada's history is inextricably intertwined with the history of the railroads. The Canadian Pacific Railroad played a key role in opening up the west and these castle-like railway hotels figured prominently in Canada's development of the West Coast.

Last Friday a wonderful adventure provided the highlight of my trip: I went dogsledding with Snowy Owl Adventures on a crisp crystal-blue winter day, high in the mountains above the town of Canmore.

Our adventure was almost over, but I had one more chance for exploration: on Saturday I took the gondola up to Sulphur Mountain from where I got a perfect 360 degree panoramic view of Banff and the surrounding mountain ranges. I checked out the Cosmic Ray Station and after a brief forest hike past the Banff Springs Hotel, I visited the Banff Park Museum, one of Canada's oldest natural history museums.

Our Alberta explorations were rapidly coming to an end, and just before we headed to the airport we went on one final walk through Calgary and explored the famous +15 walkway system that keeps Calgary visitors sheltered from the harsh winter air. We also explored a beautiful tropical hideaway called Devonian Gardens....

Along the way we got to explore some great skiing, magnificent mountain scenery and historic buildings, the exuberance of a dog-sledding team raring to go and the outstanding hospitality of the people of Alberta. We'll be back.....
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