When climbing in a group, belaying provides the necessary safety factor, allowing the group to climb with a minimum of danger. Two or three climbers are tied into a climbing rope. The use of a rope in group climbing can be a hazard without belaying skills. It may be necessary to use one of several belay positions. Either with the body, or mechanical belay device. Belaying involves a stationary climber managing and controlling the rope that is tied to a load. It is used to control descent on rope installations.



There are always three aspects common to any belay. These are: a type of belay (direct or indirect); a method of controlling the rope (static or dynamic); and a means of managing the rope (body or mechanical).

The two basic types of belay are direct and indirect. The direct belay involves using a mechanical device. The belayer is connected to a point of protection, and conducts the mechanical belay from another point of protection. In this type of belay the load goes directly to the anchor.

The main advantage of the direct belay is that the belayer does not take any of the force generated by a fall because he/she is removed from the belay chain. The rope can be quickly tied off, and the belayer is then free to assist the fallen climber.

The disadvantage is that the anchor point must be absolutely secure. If the primary and secondary anchors fail, then the load falls the full length of the rope. It also takes more time to set up and take down.

The indirect belay may be used for mechanical or body belays. The belayer is in direct contact with the climbing rope and is part of the belay chain. With this setup the load is partly absorbed by the belayer.

The advantage of the indirect belay approach is that only two anchor points (primary and secondary) are required for the belayer and the climbing rope. It is much easier and quicker to set up and retrieve than a direct belay.

The disadvantage of course is that the belayer, being part of the belay chain, sustains part of the force generated by a fall. And, being part of that chain, cannot easily detach from the rope to lend assistance.

There is quite a lot of information involved in belaying, and for that reason I intend to make it a short series of three articles, rather than trying to cram it all into one. Look out for part two shortly.