The wife and I walked downtown from our East Guanajuato Barrio today. On the way back, I stopped in one of the local Spanish Schools. I wanted to talk with the guy in charge to see about making an appointment to talk about taking classes again. The school was abuzz with students. This is good. When we first moved to Guanajuato, the school was struggling. It was a good school then and is even better now.
When I was in the school, I encountered what I am sure to hear over and over again in the weeks ahead:
"You mean, you live here and have for five years and you are coming back to Spanish class?"
Why?
I am sure to hear this once I get ensconced in class and introduce myself. I was dreading this. The fellow classmates find I have been living in the city and immediately will wonder why in God's name am I sitting in a classroom taking Spanish instruction. I was dreading this sort of encounter until I realized just why this is going to be a question asked of me repeatedly.
The answer, I think, is that it is assumed if you actually live in a Mexican town full-time and have been living in the town for five years, then you would have somehow, as if by magic, simply absorbed Spanish. You will arrive by some mysterious process to being able to discuss Quantum Mechanics in Spanish with the local university's scientists. There will be no Spanish task too hard for you, so why are you sitting in a classroom?
I really think the issue, about which I have written in earlier articles, "Language Learning" versus "Language Acquisition" is the principal reason for the confusion that will prompt a bevy of questions and confused looks. So few really know the difference. They will spend a small fortune to come and study in a classroom in the country where the language is spoken expecting some kind of miracle to occur. The guy I talked to today told me once, many years ago, that many, if most, come to Spanish class with a fantasy expectation of learning Spanish. Nor is there a miracle waiting for you if you move here. There are more opportunities to practice if you take advantage of them.
Miracles are not waiting in the town in which you come to study, or even live, but what awaits you is hard, hard, hard work.
What is absolutely pivotal is to correctly understand the difference between Language Learning and Language Acquisition. What most people who spend the time, money, and effort to come to Mexico to study Spanish want is Spanish Speech. They want to be able to speak the language. Some do, of course, come with the desire to learn something about the language (grammar), but most want to be able to speak the language. And, what they do is put the cart (grammar) before the horse (speech) instead of the other way around.
I always advise those who ask to get as much Spanish Speech training under their belts long before coming to Mexico to study Spanish.
What you will encounter if you don't is what is going to sound like mush instead of comprehensible speech.
Acquire Spanish speech first.
Learn Grammar second.
Living In Mexico Cheap
I fall, of course, on the "You've got to learn Spanish" side of the fence. My main arguments in my columns have been that you can never, ever learn the culture of Mexico without the access to the Cultural Portal--the language! But, my arguments generally, not always, fall on deaf ears.
The solution so many American expats seem to love is moving into a well-honed Gringo infrastructure called, "Gringolandia". In these little enclaves they've banned together to form their own little version of America in their own little American colony and practice their own little version of American colonialism. Part of this includes a self-governing practice not even remotely resembling a democracy. If you want to be a part of it, then it is their way or it is the highway. They will even enforce their Lord of the Flies government with threats and carry some of them out--or at least try to.
Is this true of all of them without exception? No,of course not. But I have to say that so as to minimize the death threats this blog will surely bring.
Another part of these Gringolandias is that they find the bilingual Mexicans and use them. They use them for everything. They use them to do their bidding in the real Mexican world that exists outside of their little Bubbled Gringolandias that require using the language. (Where I live I am wondering when the locals who speak English will figure out they should begin to charge for these translation and interpretation services and make a killing off the monolingual Gringos?)
Whether someone agrees or not with my views of expatriation to Mexico and the Spanish issue can certainly be debated. What cannot be argued, however, is that if the Gringo tries living in an area of Mexico where English is not widely spoken, and is out cruising the town and has a medical emergency, just what in "English's Name Only" are they going to do?
Many are being attracted, in recent years, to Central Mexico. It offers cheaper living and that's mainly what is sought regarding expatriatism. What many do not understand is that the cities in Mexico that have developed a Gringo infrastructure with plenty of English to go around, is an artificial thing (and much more mega-expensive). It is a hybrid. I've seen visitors who are staying in San Miguel de Allende (Gringolandia Incarnate) come to Guanajuato and become very out-of-sorts over not being able to find many English speaking locals in the tourist industry. And, speaking of San Miguel de Allende, the playground of the rich and famous Gringos, the prices for everything are so high that many can't afford to live there. It is no longer an American Retiree Haven unless you are rich.
Prices in the Prime-Living Locations for expats have soared so high that they are now looking toward the center of the country, the Mexican highlands, to find places for retirement and learning the language does not seem to be on their list of things to do to get ready.
So, you move to a little place off the beaten path in Mexico. One day you are strolling along in a lovely little plaza and you suddenly keel over in some sort of attack or seizure. The very Spanish-only locals see you are having some sort of medical emergency and very valiantly rush you into a Spanish-only clinic. You can't string enough Spanish words together to barely order a cup of coffee much less begin to tell the doctor what's wrong with you and what medications you take that might interfer with what he or she is about to inject you with. Your friend whose Spanish is worse than yours, cannot do anything to ease the language crisis and all he can do is stand there and hope you don't die.
Fiction? Nope. I know someone it happened to.
Look: Americans remarkably do not seem to get that in the popular resort areas and in the areas that have become the Gringolandias of Mexico where English is widely spoken, that this is not true everywhere in Mexico. And yet, they keep coming as tourists and expats into the non-Prime-Living and Resorts areas of Mexico fully expecting the locals to be bilingual.
At the very least when a tourist, have your medical history and medicines you take translated onto a card, or something, that you can give to the doctor in an emergency room.
At the very least as an expat, learn Spanish! Stop using the excuse that it is too hard, you are too old, you've tried but it just is too hard, or whatever else your monolingual lazy butt can think of.
The truth, the Linguistic Evidence, is that you are not too old. Learning Speech is hardwired into every human's brain. Stop confusing learning something about Spanish--grammar--with learning Spanish--speech.
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