Before wristwatches became ubiquitous in our society, pocket watches were the standard for personal timekeeping. The first pocket watch is thought to have been made in Germany towards the end of the fifteenth century. Bearing a close resemblance to the traditional clock, early pocket watches operated in very much the same manner as their clock cousins.
A deviation from traditional clock designs, pocket watches used the combination of a mainspring, hairspring and a balance wheel. This is in contrast to traditional clock designs that used a swinging pendulum and counter weights.
Like today's wristwatches, pocket watches consist of two main components, the inner works and a metal case. Many different metals were used for early pocket watchcases including gold and silver. The case was usually of a two piece clamshell design. The cases of early watches were impervious to dirt and moisture, which meant the watches, needed a good bit regular cleaning. As time went on, other less expensive metals were used for case works including mild steel and pot metal.
The inner works of the early pocket watch contained a number of gears and wheels held in place between two metal plates. The lower plate or pillar plate rests next to the dial while the upper plate might have come in two pieces though the best made watches utilized a single piece upper plate. The plates were precisely drilled and bored to hold the other components in the proper place.
To prevent wear of the moving parts, hard gemstones were used with the moving pegs or axles. There were four wheels in the works known as the barrel wheel, the first wheel, the second wheel and the third wheel. The barrel wheel is used as the attachment for the mainspring.
The motion is transmitted by the uncoiling of the spring and is regulated by the escapement that is kept moving by the combined action of the mainspring and the hairspring providing an oscillating movement. The wheel that has sixty gear teeth around the circumference engages the escapement wheel and transmits motion to the minute hand. It also meshes into the pinion of the center wheel that transmits motion to the hour hand.
Movement is controlled by a lever that is connected to the hairspring. By moving the lever to the left or the right, the tension of the hairspring is increased or reduced.
The plates of the works were made from plate stock of steel or brass and would go through a series of machining operations that would include being placed on a pantograph machine which would exactly copy dimensions from a master part to the part being machined. After machining, the plates would be polished using several types of abrasive materials like emery.
Gemstones like garnet, rubies, sapphires and diamond. Garnets would be cut with diamond points into tiny disks and would then be set in tiny plates of gold.
The intricate process of assembly the works required precisely made screws and other components that would often be plated or heat treated by hand. The small gears were stamped from brass using very precisely made dies and springs were formed from fine spring wire.
Dial faces were similarly stamped out of a base metal, enameled and the markings stenciled in place and the dial would be fired again. Once fully assembled, the finished watch was subjected to cold temperatures of around forty degrees Fahrenheit and then exposed to higher temperatures up to around one hundred degrees Fahrenheit. This process was undoubtedly used to test the watch in different temperature extremes to ensure consistent operation.
Like countless other consumer products, the way in which modern wrist watches are manufactured has undergone incredible changes since the Industrial Revolution that broke during the turn of twentieth century. This important period in world history ushered in entirely new ways to mass produce products for a growing world population. In every facet of manufacturing there were incredible technological advances that improved efficiencies and helped reduce production costs.
Most of us have heard about the way Henry Ford changed the way automobiles were built by developing the production line assembly method. Cars would constantly roll off the Ford assembly line, as workers would fit various parts to the chassis in a precise order and within a predetermined time.
What few of us think about are the other changes that made this type manufacturing operation possible. Critical to the success of the mass production line was the development of standardized parts, components that are nearly identical to each other.
Prior to the development of mass production assembly lines, most mechanical assemblies, including watches were built from components that were made individually most often by different producers. This meant that very often, parts from one machine be it a car, locomotive or sewing machine, could be not be used on another machine.
As other watch producers adopted the practice of parts standardization and integrated quality control, the reliability of wrist watches was greatly increased. The use of standardized components meant that those parts that subject to wear did so in more consistent and predictable way, requiring far less maintenance and repair than those timepieces assembled as one of kind items.
Watch Making The Band
For a number of years before the wrist watch became a common sight, the standard for personal timekeeping was the pocket watch. Pocket watches are said to have originated in Germany towards around the end of the fifteenth century. The design of early pocket watches was patterned after the clock designs of the day.
What made pocket watches different from clocks was the mechanism used to drive the watch, which used a balance wheel, hairspring and a mainspring. The clocks of the time relied on a combination of counter weights and a swinging pendulum.
The basic design of a wrist watch has not changed over the years, and still uses two basic components. Wrist watches all have some type of metal case with the works of the watch inside. The case was usually made up of three pieces, the bezel, the back and the crystal. Different metals were used for the cases of early pocket watch cases including silver and gold. Over the years, less expensive metals, including pot metal and stainless steel were used for the case. The design of early watches made them susceptible to moisture and dirt that required regular cleaning.
The gears and wheels that made up the inner works of early watches were sandwiched between two metal plates. The pillar plate rests closest to the dial. The upper plate was often made from two pieces though better quality watches were made from a single piece upper plate. Both the upper plate and the pillar plate were precisely machined and drilled. The location of the holes had to be precise since the assembly of depended on it. The four wheels that were part of the inners works are called the first wheel, the second wheel the third wheel and the barrel wheel. The barrel wheel acted as an attachment point for the mainspring. In order to reduce wear on moving parts, certain gemstones were used as bushings and bearings.
The motion needed to power the watch was supplied by the uncoiling of the main spring. The rate at which the spring uncoiled was controlled by the escapement which was is kept moving by the combined action of the mainspring and the hairspring. The result was oscillating movement that drove a sixty gear tooth wheel, engaging the escapement wheel and transmitting motion to the minute hand. It also meshes into the pinion of the center wheel which transmits motion to the hour hand. The movement was controlled by a lever which that was connected to the hairspring. Moving the lever to the left or to the right increased or reduced the tension placed on the hairspring.
Plate stock of brass or steel was used to manufacture the plates for the inner works. Often, a master plate would be made be machined and used to make exact copies. Early machining techniques might have included the use of a pantograph machine which would produce a duplicate of the master plate. The plates would deburred and polished after machining. Gemstones like diamonds, garnets, sapphires and rubies garnet, rubies, sapphires and diamond would be cut into small disks and set in gold. The assembly of the watch works was very intricate and required screws that were of precise dimensions. The small gears needed for the movement were stamped out of brass, using precision made metal dies. Springs were hand formed from very fine spring wire.
Watch dial faces were stamped out of a base metal, coated with enamel and the markings would be applied using a stencil. The dial face would then be fired in a kiln. Some watch makers would alternately subject the finished watches to cold hot temperatures in order to test the watches operation.
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