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Watch The Italian Job

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Over the last several years, Panerai watches have earned a worldwide reputation for excellence in design and performance. Although the Panerai name has been synonymous with quality and design for well over one hundred years among collectors and other cognoscenti, new models of these precision watches were unavailable for purchase abroad until around 1998.



Since then, demand has soared to the point that Panerai watches are now among the most sought-after watches in the world. Some models are very difficult to find. Panerai watches continue to build on a rich history that goes back to the nineteenth century. This article contains a concise history of the Panerai watch, the watch preferred by Italian divers for almost a century.

Early History: The Founding of the Panerai Watch Company

In 1860, Giovanni Panerai opened his watch-making shop in Florence, Italy. Florence's first watchmaker, G. Panerai & Co., quickly established a reputation for making exquisitely crafted watches. Knowing that Swiss watch craftsmanship was unparalleled, Panerai contacted the most prestigious Swiss watch manufacturers and began modeling his Panerai watches around the precisely crafted and dependable Swiss model. Over time, the business flourished. When Giovanni died, his son Leon Francesco Panerai took over his father's workshop and continued to build upon the Panerai reputation for excellence.

In time, Leon's son Guido also joined the business and started a new venture named Guido Panerai and Figliothe. This business focused on designing and manufacturing high-precision mechanical instruments for many different clients. Word of this new company's expertise spread, and eventually, Guido was contacted by the Royal Italian Navy. Shortly thereafter, Panerai and Figliothe became the navy's official supplier of optical and navigational mechanical devices, and the company was renamed Officine Panerai.

Middle History: Descendants Building on the Panerai Legacy for Excellence

Around the turn of the century, when the Italians were developing a new kind of navy with metal ships and divers, naval officers asked Guido to develop a watch with a luminous face and hands. Early successes with luminous materials for the watch led to larger contracts with the navy for luminous instrument dials, nighttime sighting devices for naval gunnery, and a wide range of other mechanical instruments that could calculate depth, timing, and range to targets. As the demand for these instruments grew, the Officine Panerai company continued to grow, too.

In the early 1930s, Guido's children, Giuseppe and Maria, continued their father's work with Maria focusing on the watch-making part of the business and Giuseppe working mainly on expanding the company's long relationship with the Italian Navy. He continued to develop and manufacture luminous devices for divers, including wrist compasses, depth gauges, and a wide range of other fine mechanical equipment designed for underwater performance. In 1936, the navy asked Giuseppe to design and build an underwater watch that could withstand extreme conditions. The first Panerai Radiomir watch prototype passed all testing protocols.

As World War II loomed, the navy needed all the equipment that the Panerais could make, especially diver's watches. In 1943, the first Panerai Mare Nostrum chronograph was introduced for naval officers, although the watch never went into production. In 1949, a patent was issued for the Panerai Luminor. This model effectively replaced the Radiomir. Work continued, with craftsmen focused on creating Panerai watch models able to perform at greater and greater depths. Until the end of the 1980s, new Panerai watches were made exclusively for military clients; however, the company made their watches available to the public in the early 1990s.

Recent History: A New Beginning

In 1997, the Panerai Company was acquired by the Richemont Group. This company already owned the rights to other prestigious watchmakers such as Cartier, IWC, and others. The Richemont Group made Panerai watches available internationally, and suddenly, this coveted watch that was once available to a select few could be purchased in fine watch and jewelry shops around the world.

Knowing they stood to make a fortune with this new acquisition, Richemont reintroduced the Panerai Radiomir and Panerai Luminor, as well as a line of contemporary models inspired by the unique aesthetics of Panerai design. The future of Panerai watches and the people who love them appears to be quite promising. New models are expected to be rolled out for the foreseeable future. Of course, all new models will adhere to Giovanni Panerai and his descendants? strict standards for craftsmanship and performance.
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